Tactical Response Academy

We all need to be paying close attention to leaks of our cars, both personal and company cars. Running a vehicle drastically low on vital liquid can ruin the engine.

Here is how we can decipher the evidence:

If the leak is clear, watery and under the air conditioner, it's probably just normal condensation. (If you used the vehicle's air conditioner recently)

If the leak is black or dark brown, greasy, and located under the engine area, it's probably oil. Figure out what part of the vehicle was over the spot and look for leaks around the oil-drain plug, the crankcase, and the engine. Call Michael immediately about ODEC cars.

If the leak is red or pink and greasy and you have an automatic transmission, it's probably transmission fluid. Check the transmission dipstick, and if the level is low, top it off with the proper transmission fluid. Then check the dipstick again in a day or two. If it is low again, have a professional check your own vehicle's transmission to make sure that the seals are intact. Call Michael immediately about ODEC cars.

If the leak is watery or slippery; it's green, red, blue, orange, or rust colored; and it's coming from under the radiator or engine, it's probably coolant. Check the coolant reserve, radiator, and hoses. Call Michael immediately about ODEC cars.

If the leak is oily; it's pink, red, or clear and you find toward the front bumper (usually on the driver's side), it is probably power-steering fluid. Check the power-steering reserve. If the level is low, add more fluid and check again in a couple of days. If it is low again, have your mechanic check things out. Call Michael immediately about ODEC cars.

If the leak is a light-colored or clear fluid, it may be brake fluid. Even if the leaks have dried, the stains should be visible. Depending on which part of the car was parked over the puddle or spot, check for fluid leaks around the master cylinder and around the brake lines. If the leak is where a wheel was standing, check down the inside surface of that wheel. If you find stains or wetness there, the brake cylinder could be leaking. Check the brake fluid reserve if available. Call Michael immediately about ODEC cars.

If the leak smells like gasoline, it probably is!

If you cannot locate the source of the leak and your vehicle is losing liquid from the radiator on a regular basis, check the radiator cap. If that is not the source, take it to your mechanic. Call Michael immediately about ODEC cars.

If the transmission says OD or is a D surrounded by black or it just says Overdrive:

This is the position for normal driving position for an automatic overdrive trans-axle. It works the same way as D (Drive) but shifts to fourth gear- an overdrive gear- when your vehicle cruises at a constant speed for any length of time. This fourth gear increases your fuel economy when you travel at cruising speeds.

Overdrive may not be appropriate for certain terrains. If the trans-axle shifts back and forth between the third and fourth gears while driving hilly roads or if your vehicle requires additional power for climbing hills, shift into D (Drive).

When to use D (Drive): The D (Drive) position eliminates the needless shifting back and forth between third and fourth gears that your vehicle may do when driving on hilly terrain. It also gives more engine braking that overdrive to slow your vehicle on downgrades.

1 (First):

Use 1 (First) gear for when added engine braking is desired when descending steep hills. The automatic trans-axle will shift to the proper gear to ascend any grade without any need to shift to 1 (First). Do not go faster than 38 mph when in this gear. You can up-shift from 1 (First) to overdrive at any time.

2 (Second):

Use 2 (Second) gear when driving in heavy city traffic or on mountain roads where more precise speed control is desirable. Use it also when climbing long grades and for engine braking when descending moderately steep grades. To prevent excessive engine speed, do not exceed 45 mph in this range.

3 (Third)

Use 3 (Third) gear when you are driving at a constant rate of 30 mph but this may depend on the engine size. It is possible to drive at 30 mph in 3 (Third) gear without making the engine labour. If you struggle to keep your speed within the 30 mph when driving in a 30 mph zone, try driving in 3 (Third) gear without feeling that the engine is labored, adopt ‘no higher than 3 (Third) in 30 mph as a principle.

Automatic cars normally have several forward gears so the driver should choose which gear makes it easiest to keep the vehicle under 30 mph.

As the days grow shorter and the night longer, we once again find ourselves on the road in the dark.  Driving home from football games, a late night at the office, or dining at your favorite restaurant for dinner leaves you in a position of possibly being blinded from the oncoming headlights.

Why does the problem of glaring headlights seem to be getting worse?  Really, there are several reasons.  The growing popularity of high intensity discharge (HID) lights is showing up on many high-end cars.  They emit twice the light of halogens and look blue-white in comparison to other lights.  While the owner of the HID lights might love them, the oncoming traffic might hate them, since that amount of light can be blinding.  You will also notice that larger vehicles that ride higher also have headlights that are higher.  Most people complain that these larger vehicles are shining lights directly in their eyes.  Then there is the inevitable-your eyes might just be sensitive.  As we age we become more sensitive to glare, especially people with light colored eyes.  Sometimes vision-correction surgery can also increase this sensitivity.

Since we teach at TRA that being courteous is a basic habit that good drivers should possess, consider that taking care of your own headlights might be the first step to combating glare.  Make sure your headlights are aligned, especially in cars five years old or older.  Headlights can be adjusted by turning small screws at the top and sides of each lamp.  If you cannot do it yourself, a mechanic can.  Also, wiping them down at the gas station reduces glare and gives you more light.

Believe it or not, your issue might just be a dirty windshield.  Make sure you clean the inside just as well as the outside.  Have your chips and cracks filled at a glass repair shop.

Other tips and habits are taught in the Teen Program, Winter Driving Class, and Defensive Driving Class that we provide at ODEC.  It is never the wrong time for a refresher course for experienced drivers, and training for the novice driver always pays off. 

As school starts back up again, it is amazing how traffic jams suddenly appear between 6:30 and 8:30 am. The mass movement of students walking, being bused, and driving themselves to school seems like a tidal wave on our streets.These early morning commuters are precious cargo, to say the least.  Keeping that in mind, we need to be more alert than ever as drivers.

Most people’s bodies run on a 24 hour clock (about a day).  Just as we all have the “urge” to wake each morning, we also have a strong impulse to sleep between the hours of midnight and 6am. Teen drivers are particularly susceptible to fatigue as their clocks want them to sleep later in the morning.  If you are a bus driver, a commuter, or emergency responder you will undoubtedly find yourself encountering these sleepy drivers in the mornings.

Regardless of who you are, most of us need around eight hours of uninterrupted sleep each night.  Research has shown that getting less than six hours can be especially risky.  So, as you drive down the road tomorrow morning with your skinny-mocha-café-latte-chino in your hand, consider that it takes about 30 minutes for the caffeine to take effect on your brain.

Consider that there are about 700 fatigue-related collisions during the 6 a.m. commute, which goes down considerably by late morning.  Not surprisingly, collisions spike again after lunch, but are the highest during the middle of your sleep cycle (2 a.m.).  Check out TRA's free downloadsthat address many of the reasons we have collisions in the first place.

Important decision making skills and reflexes are impeded by exhaustion.  The Tactical Response Academy teaches basic to advanced level defensive and evasive driving strategies, correct defensible decisions and proper evasive tactics, and real driving strategies for professional drivers.  Learn much more on our TRA web site .

Let’s all get a good night’s rest, for everybody’s sake.

As the weather begins to change and clouds loom large in the Oregon sky, taking care of business under the hood of our cars becomes a bit more urgent.  We all check the oil level and take time to refill the window washing fluid, but what about that strange liquid dripping onto your driveway?  What is it and is it important to the maintenance of your car?

• If the leak is clear, watery and under the air conditionr that you ran earlier, it's probably just normal condensation.


• If the leak is black or dark brown, greasy, and located under the engine area, it's probably oil. Figure out what part of the vehicle was over the spot and look for leaks around the oil-drain plug, the crankcase, and the engine.


• If the leak is red or pink and greasy and you have an automatic transmission, it's probably transmission fluid. Check the transmission dipstick, and if the level is low, top it off with the proper transmission fluid. Then check the dipstick again in a day or two. If it is low again, have a professional check your vehicle's transmission to make sure that the seals are intact


• If the leak is watery or slippery; it's green, red, blue, orange, or rust colored; and it's coming from under the radiator or engine, it's probably coolant. Check the coolant reserve, radiator, and hoses


• If the leak is oily; it's pink, red, or clear; and you find toward the front bumper (usually on the driver's side), it is probably power-steering fluid. Check the power-steering reserve. If the level is low, add more fluid and check again in a couple of days. If it is low again, have your mechanic check things out.


• If the leak is a light-colored or clear fluid, it may be brake fluid. Even if the leaks have dried, the stains should be visible. Depending on which part of the car was parked over the puddle or spot, check for fluid leaks around the master cylinder and around the brake lines. If the leak is where a wheel was standing, check down the inside surface of that wheel. If you find stains or wetness there, the brake cylinder could be leaking. Check the brake fluid reserve if available.


• If the leak smells like gasoline, it probably is!


• If you cannot locate the source of the leak and your vehicle is losing liquid from the radiator on a regular basis, check the radiator cap. If that is not the source, take it to your mechanic.

No matter where the leak is coming from, taking your car in for a check-up is always a good idea. Letting things go to long can just cause more headaches and financial burdens later. And while you are at it, take advantage of the winter driving class This could save you a whole lot more than a few bucks at the mechanics.

If you remember last winter in the Portland area, you’ll remember snow, kids home because of snow days, snow men, and, of course, loads of hot chocolate. Unfortunately you will also remember the treacherous roads. It is frightening when the weather conditions dictate our ability to drive, especially when you or the “other guy” are unsure about how to handle your vehicle in those adverse conditions.

Tactical Response Academy has addressed this problem by offering Xtreme Driver Control Course. This is a unique, risk free way to experience hazardous winter driving conditions without the danger of a collision. We own an amazing simulator that is state of the art, self contained, with sharp computer graphics. While a simulator can never replace real experience on the road, it certainly avoids the potentially risky road situations and puts you in high-stress scenarios without you (or your vehicle) being jeopardized. You learn proper vehicle control and collision avoidance techniques when driving on ice and snow from highly trained instructors.

• Skid control


• Applying tire chains


• Proper response techniques for high risk scenarios


• Decision making skills

This class is a great investment for any driver-novice to experienced. We are all better off when we reduce the risk of collisions, property damage, and injury. For more information about this class, or any other class we offer, visit our web site. We are excited to be of service.